Amsterdam’s secret gardens
The Dutch capital has a host of beautiful tranquil almshouses with courtyards so you can escape the bustle
One feature of Amsterdam worth searching out is its hofjes, which are courtyards surrounded by almshouses. You get a kind of Tom’s Midnight Garden feeling walking past the typically plain door or gate from the street into these pretty oases of calm.
The first hofjes were founded in the 13th century, but most date from the 17th century. They were an early form of public housing, founded for charitable reasons by wealthy citizens to provide homes for the elderly, mostly destitute widows. Yet the rich founders were not totally free of self-interest and their Christian beliefs led them to believe they would be rewarded for their charity in the form of a better place in heaven, closer to God.
The almshouse complexes originated from a wide variety of denominations including Lutheran, Reformed, Roman Catholic and Baptist. The simple houses were generally built around a central courtyard, the ‘hof’ or garden, typically with a water pump situated in the centre. The elderly residents were typically given free shelter, an allotment of peat for heating, and some food and spending money. They were usually expected to adhere to strict rules of conduct and were supervised by the governors of the almshouses.
Fifty-six hofjes remain in Amsterdam, and most are hidden away from sight off the well-worn tourist routes. Many can be visited by the public for free on the condition that no disturbance is caused, you don’t go in large groups, and that visitors respect the privacy of the residents. Access for the public varies, but is generally from 9am to 5pm or 6pm on weekdays and sometimes on Saturdays also.
Many hofjes had - and still have - just one entry from the street, often with a narrow corridor leading to the courtyard itself. The hofjes are barely recognisable from the street and when you open the door through to the courtyard you almost enter a different world, a tranquil, green oasis far from the noisy, bustling city.
Today the almshouses are popular as housing with both young and old Amsterdam residents alike and there are often long waiting lists for the homes.
The Jordaan neighbourhood has the biggest number of hofjes, totalling nearly 20.
Begijnhof
Entrances at Spui 14 and Kalverstraat
The Begijnhof is the best-known of Amsterdam’s almshouses, very pretty and impressive, but also the most crowded and touristy. It is just a 10-minute walk from the Dam, the city’s main square, where the Royal Palace is located. It was a retreat for Begijns’, a religious order of unmarried women who often took vows of chastity. It is one of Amsterdam’s oldest hofjes, and may date from as early as 1150, and certainly before the end of the 1300s.
It has an enchanting secluded courtyard of almshouses - no two alike - around a peaceful garden, built from the 14th century onwards. It retains a sense of sanctity to this day. Entering the little archway on the north side of Spui Square - that so easily could be missed - the peace is surprising compared to the bustle outside. It’s a wonderful break from the Amsterdam crowds. Rather like London's Inns of Court, it is a time-warped oasis overlooked by the majority of visitors.
The courtyard is fringed by 17th century houses, which are private, but there are a couple of beautiful churches, which permit visitors. The Englesekerk (English Reformed Church) was built in approximately 1400, taken over by Calvinists in 1578 and used by the Pilgrims in 1607 as their chapel before they began their journey across the Atlantic on the Mayflower. It has a pulpit with four panels designed by Piet Mondrian. Across from here is a Catholic church with beautiful stained glass windows that was formed secretly from two houses in 1665 when the Roman Catholic faith was banned after the Reformation. At number 34 is one of Amsterdam’s oldest houses, the wooden-fronted Het Houten Huis, dated 1477. It’s amazing it has survived the numerous fires that ravaged Amsterdam in the past.
You can also enter the Begijnhof from busy Kalverstraat.
Claes Claeszoon Hofje or Anslo Hofje
1e Egelantiersdwarsstraat 34-54, also Eerste Egelantierstraat 18-50 and Tuinstraat
Founded in 1616 by Baptist linen merchant Claes Claeszoon Anslo, this Jordaan complex has three courtyards. Most of the houses are now lived in by students of the Sweelinck Conservatory of Music, and there is a memorial plaque to the 17th century organist Sweenlinck in the Tuinstraat, with the name Claes Claesz. In the Egelantierstraat, to the left over the door of number 24, there is a memorial stone bearing the Anslo (the old name for Oslo) city arms. The entrance door in the wall on the Eerste Egelantierdwarsstraat is usually open.
Karthuizerhof or Huiszitten Weduwenhof
Karthuizerstraat 89-171
This is one of Amsterdam’s largest groups of almshouses, now largely populated by young people. Situated in the Jordaan, it has a spacious court and was founded in 1650 to help poverty-stricken widows. It used to consist of around 100 houses and 65 remain. Above the inside entrance is a colourful plaque depicting a small sailing vessel with sails furled. The courtyard itself contains two 17th century pumps with spouts in the form of dolphins. Within the facade are the arms of the city.
Concordiahofje
Westerstraat 351-381
This hofje nearby is relatively recent, having opened in 1864, and is a good example of what a more modern hofje looks like.
St Andrieshofje
Egelantiersgracht 107-145
This group of Jordaan almshouses date from 1617 and therefore are one of the oldest in Amsterdam. A beautiful blue and white Delft-tiled wall in a narrow corridor leads you into this tranquil place, founded by wealthy cattle farmer Jeff Gerritszoon to help Catholic poor, elderly women. The almshouses used to have their own chapel but this is now gone. The memorial stone above the entrance to the courtyard says ‘Vrede Zy Met U’, peace be with you.
Constantiahofje
Willemstraat 143-147
A small, inconspicuous door from the street leads to this small, tranquil Jordaan hofje.
Venetiae
Elandsstraat 106-136
This Jordaan hofje from the mid-1600s boasts a very pretty garden.
Zevenkeurvorstenhofje
Tuinstraat 197-223
This Jordaan hofje was founded in around 1645, but the houses now grouped around the small courtyard originate from the 18th century. The neo-gothic chapel also situated in the courtyard dates from 1862.
Zonshofje
Pinsengracht 159-171
Before becoming a hofje, this centrally located yet blissfully tranquil hofje was a secret Mennonite church which was reconstructed in 1755 to become an orphanage and hofje. A long, narrow passageway leads to a lovely courtyard. Look out for a clock dating from 1765 that depicts animals going into Noah’s ark two by two, and a carving of the sun (zon).
Brienenhofje
Prinsengracht 85-133
Nearby on Prinsengracht, this almshouse was founded by benefactor Arnout Jan van Brienen for elderly Catholics. However, he only lived long enough to see the foundation stone laid, which dates from 1804. A well worn stone above the monumental gatehouse commemorates this date. The name derives from the brewery of the same name which used to be situated on the same spot. The courtyard features a twisted magnolia tree, trimmed box hedges, wrought-iron tables and chairs and a water pump framed by four ornate lamp posts with splendid blue and gold crowns.
Lindenhofje
Lindengracht 94-112
This hofje in the Jordaan dates from 1614 and is the oldest surviving one. However, it cannot now be visited as it is now a children’s hospice. But there is a picture beside the main door to show you what its courtyard looks like.
Suyckerhofje
Lindengracht 149-163
Further along Lindengracht this pretty Jordaan hofje was founded in 1667 by Pieter Jansz Suyker for Protestant women.
Spent several years in Amsterdam, and entering secret hofjes was among my favorite ways to engage with the city 😉