Exploring Sri Lanka’s little-known north

Almost all Sri Lankan tourist itineraries focus on the south - but now the north is opening up

“Cow ahead!” I shout to the driver, although it is very unlikely he hasn’t noticed the huge animal standing in the middle of the road in front of us.

We are fast approaching it - my driver is keen on racing along the roads, whether surfaced or muddy, populated by people or stray dogs, or unlit vehicles when it gets dark - which isn’t doing much good for my nerves.

“I am one of the fastest drivers in my company,” he says proudly, and I have no inclination to dispute him. However, later on when I scream as a lorry is heading straight towards us soon after we have overtaken on a blind bend, he informs me that in 25 years of driving he has never hit anything. Well, there’s always a first time.

This first day in Sri Lanka is an assault of the senses, a 400-kilometre drive straight after an 11-hour flight from London, from Colombo International Airport in the southwest of the island to Jaffna in the extreme north, which normally takes around eight hours but we accomplish in seven-and-a-half unsurprisingly.

It is all a blur of colours - glimpses of emerald forests and plantations, bright blue, yellow and red tropical birds, golden, colourful temples, huge hulking garishly painted buses, red, pink and peach hibiscus flowers, the orange and rust robes of Buddhist monks, the bright and fresh green, yellow and red tropical fruits and vegetables sold by the roadside.

There’s quite a hubbub too - urban bustle, roaring tuk-tuk engines, the toot of horns used by impatient drivers, the pitter patter of the heavy rains on this mid-May day, and occasionally mobile bakery trucks called Choon Paan vans, playing high-pitched tunes such as Beethoven’s Für Elise to attract customers.

Few visitors to Sri Lanka experience the north of the island, not least because the north and east of the country were off limits during the civil war, which ran from 1983 until 2009. The north is dominated by Tamils, and where Hinduism is practised, whereas in the south, Sinhalese is the dominant language, with most inhabitants practising Buddhism.

However, the north of the island is at last opening up, with new hotels, restaurants and improved roads being installed to entice visitors. Lucky for those who prefer discovering destinations not swamped by tourists, the process is still in its infancy. A good indication of this is the fact that leading Sri Lankan hotel chain Jetwing Hotels has 17 hotels in the southern part of the island and only one in the north, the supremely comfortable - and very good value - Jetwing Jaffna Hotel.

The city of Jaffna has a feel that differs distinctly from those further south. No doubt it is far more influenced by India than much of the island: the Indian mainland (at Dhanushkodi) is only around 15 miles (25 kilometres) away from the Jaffna Peninsular, across the Palk Strait.

With the majority of the population here being Tamil rather than Singhalese, there are numerous ornate Hindu temples and the food is generally spicier than in the south.

Considering that Jaffna was very much affected by the civil war, being a central stronghold for militant organisation the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam and enduring decades of military occupation and intense fighting, it is surprising that none of this is apparent to the visitor. The city saw massive destruction, with roughly 80% of homes damaged, widespread landmine contamination, and the displacement of a significant portion of its population. However, today you experience a friendly, lively and relaxed city that feels completely safe. Indeed, many people greet you with a smile and the courteous Namaste sign, their hands pressed together as if in prayer, followed by a slight bow.

Jaffna is situated on a peninsula with beautiful lagoons, mangroves and islands. Jaffna Fort, built by the Portuguese in 1618 and later expanded by the Dutch, survived the civil war and is a popular spot to visit at sunset as it enjoys stunning views of the city’s lagoon and the centre of town.

A walk along the beach road takes you to the 3km long Passaiyoor Fishery Harbour and the hundreds of colourful fishing boats moored offshore, as well as - if you don’t leave it too late in the day - fishmongers calling buyers to auction at the fish market. The gold-embellished Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil Hindu temple is another fixture of Jaffna that should not be missed, while a trip to the hectic bus station gives a lively glimpse of everyday Sri Lankan life.

Going northwards, Kadurugoda, at the town of Chunnakam, a suburb of Jaffna District, is a striking ancient archaeological site consisting of around 20 stupas (typically dome-shaped sacred Buddhist monuments) and a number of stupa foundations made from grey coral stone, ranging from about 8 to 23.5 feet (2.5 to 7 metres) in diameter. They have distinguished patterns with small holes all over them. The site dates back at least two thousand years and it is believed that the stupas contain the remains of Buddhist monks.

There are Buddhist monuments in the Hindu-majority north because historically Buddhism was practised by both Tamil and Sinhala populations throughout the island before an invasion by the Chola in the 10th century, leading to a decline in Tamil Buddhism.

There is a real holiday atmosphere the hot and sunny Sunday morning when I visit the Keerimalai Naguleswaram Temple, an ancient Hindu shrine and significant pilgrimage site three miles (five kilometres) north of Jaffna. It is one of the Pancha Ishwarams, the five historic Shiva temples on Sri Lanka, holding great religious significance for Hindu devotees worldwide. By the temple sits the Keerimalai Springs, natural, freshwater pools carved out of stone and situated right by the Indian Ocean.

Considered sacred, there are separate areas for men and women, who believe that bathing in the waters cleanses the spirit, brings good fortune, and helps heal various skin diseases. Men are jumping and diving in, while the women are more sedate. There are one or two people here sitting in homemade wheelchairs, having lost lower limbs, no doubt due to landmines that had been placed in the region during the civil war.

Heading to the Mannar Peninsular it is not long before I spot what I think are donkeys wandering by the roadside, but more accurately are members of a feral population of Equus Africanus Asinus, otherwise known as the African Wild Ass, thought to be the ancestor of the domestic donkey. They were brought to the area centuries ago by Arab traders to transport goods and people. Around 3,000 of these animals live in the wild in the Mannar, Puttalam, and Kalpitiya areas today, facing threats from habitat loss, inbreeding and abuse. They are also at risk of being killed for meat despite being protected under the country’s Flora and Fauna Protection Ordinance.

However, a sanctuary in the area, The Donkey Clinic and Education Centre, works to provide healthcare for injured, abandoned, or sick donkeys. Visitors can feed, pet and learn about the animals in the Centre’s peaceful and shady surroundings as well as buy some beautiful hand-crafted cloth bags and other fund-raising souvenirs.

It is run by Sahul Hameedtu Al-Hathir and his family after he abandoned his career as a software engineer, sold his house, and set up the Centre in 2019, working closely with the local community. Since then more than 500 of the animals have benefitted from veterinary care and shelter. Some have been adopted, others set free into the wild again, while a few have been retained for the Centre’s educational programmes.

There is a rather larger variety of wildlife on offer at Wilipattu National Park, an ancient tract of dry zone forest and Sri Lanka’s largest protected area. Here, some of my party are lucky enough to spot a leopard, known as a notoriously elusive big cat, lurking in the undergrowth. Although I miss it, soon after I’m rewarded with the sight of a large sloth bear right in front of me, feasting on a termite mound. I don’t appreciate how special this is until our guide, Dhanushka, points out that sloths are almost impossible to spot in the wild, and that he has only seen four in a decade.

Wilpattu translates as ‘Land of Lakes’, as there are numerous villu, natural, sand-rimmed water basins that support unique ecosystems vital for the park’s diverse wildlife, especially during dry seasons.

The park faces numerous challenges, from illegal encroachment, poaching, climate change and related events such as droughts. However, you wouldn’t be aware of this when driving through the park, which is a delight. I - or in most instances more accurately, Dhanushka - spot eagles, hornbills, bee-eaters, cormorants, plovers, kingfishers, jungle fowl, peafowl (or as we call them, peacocks), mongoose, lizards, geckos and elephants.

It is a superb end to a tour of a lesser-known region of ‘The Teardrop of India’, so-called due to the distinctive shape and location of Sri Lanka just off the Indian subcontinent.

While no doubt many, many tears have been shed during Sri Lanka’s troubled past, it is heartening that today visiting it you will find the friendliest, most welcoming people - and fastest drivers - who are blessed to live amongst some of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth.

Photographs by Ben West

Getting there: Sri Lankan Airlines flies direct to Colombo from London Heathrow

At the airport: Holiday Extras makes arranging airport parking, meet-and-greet and airport hotel stays easy

Accommodation: The Jetwing Jaffna makes a luxurious base in the centre of Jaffna

Tours: Blue Lanka Tours

Guidebook: Sri Lanka (Bradt Guides, £17.99)

Further information: Sri Lanka Travel

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