Forgotten Northumberland

This beautiful county is often overlooked

Many people hurriedly drive through Northumberland on their way to or from Scotland, yet they don’t know what they are missing. Despite being one of the most beautiful and unspoilt corners of England, it is curiously far less known and visited than destinations like the nearby Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales.

Bordered by Scotland to the north, and the North Pennines to the south, inland Northumberland is characterised by wide open spaces of rolling moorland, forests and ancient village settlements. And the coast offers the classic ingredients of an old-fashioned seaside holiday. Peppered with dramatic castles, unostentatious towns and villages with friendly pubs, fish and chip shops, boat trips and excellent bird- and wildlife-watching, there’s something for everyone.

Accommodation, restaurant meals and pub meals are often better value in Northumberland than more popular UK holiday destinations. Its wild and empty beaches are outstanding - possibly the most exhilarating in England - and a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The coastal walk from Craster to Low Newton is particularly popular, and with good reason. It passes near the stunning medieval ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle, typically with birdlife like eider duck for company near Craster, and oystercatchers on the sands. At Low Newton you can enjoy delicious fresh crab sandwiches at the traditional Ship Inn, which nestles in an attractive square of former fishermen's cottages.

Windsurfers, water-skiers and divers should head for Beadnell beach, whilst for some solitude go to Cheswick beach, between Holy Island and Berwick.

Indeed, those in search of tranquillity will find it easily in Northumberland, being the least populated county in England. Head for Northumberland National Park: about 70 per cent of the Park consists of wide open moorland, black moor of heather and white moor of grassland. The rich variety of wildlife includes otters, skylarks and red squirrels. It’s a magnet for everyone from rock climbers to mountain bikers, cyclists, hikers and horseriders. Trails include the Hadrian's Wall Path.

Bracing walks and cycle rides amongst the rolling dunes along the beach that leads to Bamburgh Castle is another great thing to do. The imposing castle is Victorian, however there have been settlements on the site since prehistoric times. An earlier castle was destroyed by Edward IV during the Wars of the Roses.

Sleepy Seahouses has a working lifeboat to visit and a handful of shops, good chippies and cafes. The marine-themed, characterful Olde Ship Inn here is everything you’d want from a traditional British pub, and has a cosy public bar. Nautical nick-nacks hang from the ceiling and every wall. A thriving hub of the local community, all ages descend upon it each night, and create a friendly, cheerful atmosphere.

You can take a boat from the harbour at Seahouses to the Farne Islands, around two to five miles from the mainland. There are between 15 and 20 islands depending on the state of the tide. They house exceptional seabird colonies - 23 species, including around 70,000 puffins. At the height of the breeding season the islands offer one of the finest wildlife experiences in the world, with typically more than 150,000 seabirds present. There’s a large grey seal colony, a medieval fortified watch tower, a Victorian lighthouse, visitor centre and easy access boardwalk. It’s ideal for a day out with a picnic.

Another fantastic day out is the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, reached by crossing the dramatic causeway to the island by car or by foot. Be sure to check the tide times carefully for making a safe crossing as the causeway vanishes in minutes.

The island’s castle, which sits atop a volcanic mound known as Beblowe Craig, can be visited, as can the priory, the epicentre of Christianity in Anglo Saxon times. The pretty harbour, lined by upturned fishing boats, makes a delightful stroll. There’s a visitor centre and glorious beaches, and it’s all a photographer’s dream.

Its tidal mudflats, saltmarshes and dunes together form the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve and shelter a large array of rare plants and wildlife - including common and grey seals often sunning themselves on the sands. Birdlife includes pale-bellied brent, pink footed and greylag geese, wigeon and grey plovers.

Truly, after a break in this stunningly beautiful corner of England steeped in history and packed with so much to do, you will be guaranteed never to overlook this magical county ever again.

Great for fun-loving families

Alnwick Castle (01665 511100, alnwickcastle.com) will thrill youngsters for having featured as Hogwarts School in the first two Harry Potter films. Other film/tv programmes it’s featured in include Downton Abbey - there’s an exhibition about it - and there’s splendid state rooms, artworks, exhibitions and gardens, and children can join in a recreation of medieval life.

Great for spirited adventurers

The 120-mile Sandstone Way, a cycle/mountain bike route, is suitable for all ages, abilities and interests. Running between historic Berwick-upon-Tweed and Hexham, terrain is varied and often off-road. The route takes in coastal sand dunes, vast open spaces of the national park and ancient UNESCO Word Heritage Site, Hadrian's Wall.

Great for culture vultures

There’s possibly no more delightful second-hand bookshop in the British Isles than eccentric Barter Books (01665 604888, barterbooks.co.uk) at Alnwick. Housed in the historic town’s old Victorian train station, it has open fires in winter, a cafe, ice cream parlour, cosy armchairs to browse the huge book selection, children’s room with toys to play with and even a working model railway whizzing around above your head.