I wasn’t convinced it was a good idea to visit Iceland in the depths of winter, when there are only a few hours of sunlight each day. In December the average is about four or five hours of daylight per day, with the sun rising around 11am and setting around 4pm.
Yet I found that there’s plenty to do, and the many hours of darkness, near darkness and overcast skies creates a cosiness and magical atmosphere I’ve not experienced elsewhere.
Iceland is becoming cheaper to reach since budget carrier Play Airlines started flights there in 2021 - although it is not a cheap country to live in by any means.
Reykjavík is easy to explore, being small. There’s lots to discover, including numerous museums and galleries including the comprehensive National Museum of Iceland and the National Gallery of Iceland.
Being 74.5m tall, the Lutheran church Hallgrímskirkja towers over the centre.
There’s some striking street art.
You can take a 40-minute walk from the centre along the coast to the relative wilderness of Grótta Island Lighthouse.
Along the way is this modernist church, Seltjarnarneskirkja, at Seltjarnarnes.
And there’s more street art.
Just south of Reykjavík city centre, on the coast in Kópavogur, is the Sky Lagoon, a immersive swim and thermal spa experience that opened in 2021. You enter the steamy waters of the lagoon through a small cave tunnel. The pool is made from lava rock and the pool has an infinity edge that appears to merge into the sea.
There are great views of Reykjavík and the North Atlantic Ocean and the steam from the geothermal waters produce a fog that creates an other-worldly feel.
It has a very impressive sauna featuring a 16 square metre, 2.2-tonne window, the biggest in Iceland, overlooking the ocean and Reykjavík Harbour. Sometimes it is possible to see volcanic activity or the aurora borealis (northern lights).
Iceland has numerous magnificent waterfalls to admire.
With the dark skies above you, at Reynisfjara Beach, or Black Sand Beach, around 180km/112 miles from the capital, it feels like you are at the end of the world. It boasts extraordinary, dramatic Reynisdrangar basalt sea stacks, huge rock pillars emerging dramatically from the swirling waters. It is mesmerising to stand at this beach, which featured in Game of Thrones.
I’m sorry I couldn’t stay in Iceland longer. There was plenty more to see, even though I was visiting during its darkest days.
Play Airlines (flyplay.com) flies direct to Reykjavik from London and Liverpool in the UK, with a stopover of up to 10 days at no extra charge in Iceland en route for North America or Canada also possible.
Several years I visited Iceland in December too! Great experience!